Man Morning #24 - Ride the 🌊

In between waves, your second wind, and the best part of waking up.

Rise & Shine. This is Man Morning - the newsletter for the man who wants to wake up each morning with a greater sense of purpose and community.

They’ll tell you that it’s hard to match the adrenaline and euphoria they feel.

It’s like time stops and it’s just them, their board, and the wave.

For all the excitement, it’s estimated that surfers spend less than 10 percent of their time riding waves.

The way surfers talk about their sport, you’d assume they’re shredding waves all day, every day.

The reality is that surfers spend most of their time not riding waves.

There’s a lot of paddling, waiting, wipeouts, and even more waiting. Sometimes fights even take place in the water.

This is not by any means the sexy or adrenaline-fueled part of surfing, but a necessary part.

When surfers finally do catch a wave, they ride it in all its glory for just 5 to 8 seconds.

Then they paddle back out and wait for the next wave.

All that hard work and effort for less than 10 seconds of riding a wave, but surfers will tell you that it’s worth it.

When people talk about “doing the work,” this is what they’re talking about.

With surfing, all we tend to see are those highlight reels on YouTube of surfers riding gigantic waves.

However, rarely do people talk about everything else it takes, and the patience required, to prepare for that moment when the wave arrives.

Sure, surfers are prepared when the opportunity comes to ride a wave.

They’re also willing to wait or wipe out.

It’s part of the process.

There’s nothing wrong with drinking alcohol responsibly. If of age, enjoy a beer, glass of wine, or cocktail if you want.

And enjoying a cup of coffee or tea during a Man Morning walk and talk can’t be beat.

That's it for today. Share with a man or colleague who will appreciate this issue.

Man Morning Team (MMT)

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